What goes into a Philine of San Francisco coat?
It all starts with an idea. It may come to me at anytime. Usually when my head is clear, like when I'm outdoors biking or hiking in nature or when I see something I think is totally fab. I get inspired when I'm travelling, going to museums, looking at fabric or shopping vintage and boutiques stores in streets all over the world. here's some of the pictures and adventures that have influenced me
Once I have my idea of something I would like to create I begin to put fabrics and trims together and decide on the silhouette. I choose the main fabric, the trim either fur or velvet or something else, the lining and buttons. I then go to sketch up the style.
I have 4 main bodies that I have developed patterns for.
- 1. short coat with fur trim
- 2. Long Coat with rounded collar and lapel
- 4. Flare coat
- 5. Men's/Gender Free style
I then color up my sketch in photoshop to make sure I like it.
Once I've ordered my fabrics and have everything ready, I cut. Cutting is very involved and needs to be perfect. I always do this first thing in the morning so I'm clear headed as making a mistake here is costly. I walk away and think about it for days until I'm sure it's what I want.
- For one of my coats there are many fabrics involved.
- The body fabric 16-18 pattern pieces
- The trim fabric 3-5 pattern pieces
- the lining fabric 10 pieces
- the interlining-3-5 pieces
All the pieces need to be laid out in the correct direction and be on the "grain" of the fabric the right way. When cutting fur it needs to be done very delicately so you keep outer layer long while cutting back side. The silk lining is tricky because it slips all over.
Here I'm setting up to cut velvet tie-dye (by @tiedyezach) for coats going to @loveonhaight
Here is the Leopard fur, all needs to go in one direction
Once all is cut Then I need to attach interlinings and begin sewing and pressing as I go.
At the end I need to get the buttonholes made and sew on the buttons. I don't have my own buttonholer yet as they are very expensive so I'm lucky to have a friend with one who does them for me.❤️
Then of course the coat needs to be photographed and shown to you all. This is the most fun part as this is when I see my creation come to life. My last photoshoot was so awesome here's some highlights!
Brian waiting on set wearing Polar Bear Coat
Shooting Polar Bear Coat with Out of Africa Coat
Me, Adjusting Collar on model, @amandapizziconi
Amanda modeling the Black Russian Coat
This is my passion and expression of my art and soul. All of these steps that it takes to create these coats are fun and special to me. I'm so greatful to have the space to dedicate myself to my art at this point in my life and excited to share all of this with you. As you see, it all takes time and work to make a coat at Philine of San Francisco✨
SHOP PHILINE OF SAN FRANCISCO